It is fun revisiting a city that was loved the first time around. I mention in my earlier post that New Orleans is, in many ways, like a different country. Although I felt more at home in the city this time, it still has a foreign feel. It is as if it’s a hybrid of Europe and the United States. The good thing about revisiting a city is you know what you liked the first time around. You also get to hit a lot of the things you may have missed on your initial visit. Of course, given New Orleans has so much to offer there is still plenty I have saved for a future trip.
This trip was also unique, because besides my wife, my nephew came along with us. It was fun watching someone discover the area for the first time, with my wife growing up in Louisiana she was able to give us more of a local perspective. We tried to hit as much as possible in the 3.5 days we were there, and much of the trip is a blur, thanks in no small part to the numerous hurricanes and other adult beverages. Below is my best recollection of my experience in the city.
Day One in New Orleans
Driving in I knew I was in for a long, great weekend. We pulled into the hotel Montelone at around 9 AM, in my mind we were already an hour late for our first drink. Of course, we had a hurricane, it was in a bar across the street whose name escapes me. Everyone has a special twist on the drink, theirs was more citrus forward, a perfect breakfast beverage. After a month of no alcohol I basically told my liver to go F itself and downed the beverage. So before getting to our next destination, Café Du Monde, I needed another…so another I had. Introducing my nephew to some beignets, this spot may be touristy, but I still think they are the best.
Time to walk around a little more, we decided to stroll through the French Market. Round three was approaching so I grabbed another hurricane at a little kiosk on the way. The French Market was a place we loved on our first trip, but not something we really spent much time in this second trip. I was three drinks in and I haven’t even eaten anything substantial, so we made our way back to the hotel. From here we went across the street to Mr. B’s, and had a $1.50 martini, fried oysters and some seafood gumbo. Gumbo is one of those things you can only really get in New Orleans (or in my kitchen, my wife makes a great gumbo). If anyone in the city is close to homemade, it is Mr. B’s, my favorite gumbo of the many I tried in New Orleans.
Pride Weekend
Going to New Orleans is a crazy experience on any weekend. We happened to stumble upon it during pride week, in all its glory (no pun intended). I have no problem with any one’s orientation, you are who you are and no one should be judged poorly for being themselves. I do have something to say about people’s choices. Looking at some of the outfits, I can say that nothing screamed “pride” with the attire worn. It was like I was transported into a episode of Sex in The City. My eyes cannot take back the things I saw. On top of that, some of the men where outright sexual harassing people, which isn’t cool no matter your orientation. The vast majority of people attending the festivities where friendly and respectful. Overall it added to the WTF nature of the city and the weekend.
Bourbon Street
The time has come to go to Bourbon Street, and really act like a tourist. It was here that the aforementioned Pride Week participants really shined. This trip confirmed that Bourbon Street has the worst drinks, and the rudest bartenders. It was this way on my first trip and it wasn’t a fluke. We made our way to the Tropical Isle’ where my nephew wanted a grenade and twist my arm I got one also. My wife on the other hand wanted a hurricane. The response from the bartender was ‘we don’t have hurricanes here, that is another bar, we have a tropical punch.’ This statement was repeated over and over rudely. I felt like saying, “are you f-ing kidding me, pour some rum and some fruit juice call it a hurricane and shut the f- up.”
After Bourbon
As for the grenade, these things lead you to make bad choices…like drinking more. We walked through Bourbon and were making our way to the Marigny neighborhood, ending up in a local bar named Iggy’s. I was trying to find Frenchmen St, which was one block over, but never made it.. This also confirmed my original opinion that the real locals in this city are great people. I think we were there for two hours, although, at this point my mind is a blur. Now things are getting hazy, I know for a fact we made our first of many trips to the Royal Oyster House shortly after. I know we ate oysters and drank, but I couldn’t tell you if a purple elephant was sitting next to me.
I was told we went to Antoine’s on the first day as well to try the Oysters Rockefeller. My recollection is wavering, but I remember them being tasty, but nothing I would go back for..
We did something else, and I am pretty sure it involved drinking, then found ourselves in the Acme Oyster House, a good place, but not worth the line or hype. Here we did something no one should do…an oyster shooter. A shot of vodka with an oyster and hot sauce in it (to be fair, we added the hot sauce). Yeah, it was as good as it sounds… We ended the night at the Carousel bar in our hotel, that is about as much as I can recall about our first day. I knew that I needed to mix some culture into our second and third day or I may lose my liver altogether..
Day 2
I woke up. That’s a good sign, my head hurt slightly, but I knew we would be buffering our drinking. OK, we still grabbed a drink the first thing in the morning mind you (I am only human), but then we hit the Cabildo afterwards (well after two drinks). The museum has a lot of history in and around it, including the room where Plessy v. Ferguson (separate but equal/the birth of Jim Crow) took place as well where the Louisiana Purchase was signed. The museum is exceptional and well worth the small price of admission. Before heading to our next location, we got a classic muffuletta from the Central Grocery. I have had this sandwich many times, but this is the original and the best…
Steamboat
I highly recommend the steamboat tour, even if their queuing process is a joke. What kind of place gives you a ticket via email, yet makes you wait on line to get paper tickets? Oh well, I got on the boat and was looking forward to seeing an alligator or two while sailing the Mississippi. Grabbing three hurricanes for my crew, I waited in a line that took around 20 minutes. Upon my return, I am told about the 97ft gator that was near the boat, but swam away before I could see it. They think it ate a fisherman it was so big…
The trip itself was about an hour and a half, very relaxing and informative. It is nice to be able to sit back and enjoy the Mississippi coast. Although for some reason my head was pounding. Once again we hit the Royal Oyster House, our meal here got bigger every time we went. After this meal it was back to the hotel room for some rest..
Disaster (almost) Strikes
Trying to nap I notice something; my head was pounding and I had a fever. I couldn’t really move, I felt I was getting sick. I didn’t understand, I drank plenty of liquids and got a full 4 hours of sleep. Still I knew I wasn’t going anywhere. My wife and nephew were nice enough to grab me a All that Jazz sandwich from Verti Marte. I was feeling so lousy I barely ate half of the sandwich filled with shrimp, ham, turkey, and cheese, but I was in for the night, which was more than frustrating..
Day 3: Miracle!
It was 6:30 am and I was ready to go, my sickness gone, and I felt great. I was ready to hit the open roads, of course everyone else was sleeping so I went solo. I walked the streets and found the only bar open, grabbed a bloody Mary, questioning why no one else was up. Mornings in New Orleans are peaceful, it is not too hot or crowded. There was the occasional leather clad gentleman from pride week. I don’t know who throws on tight leather shorts first thing in the morning, but I digress. I will not entertain “walk of shame ” possibilities. Nothing can slow me down. I wake my family, and we make our way out on the town (SIDE NOTE: IT WAS THIS DAY AND NOT THE DAY BEFORE WE SAW A MAN GET ARRESTED BEFORE 9AM).
World War II Museum
The WWII Museum was one of the best museums I have ever been to, and that is saying something, since I have visited many around the world. The main section of the museum is broken out into two areas, the battle in the Pacific and the battle in Europe. I will say this is a must visit spot for any American. The stories told and what the world was like was truly remarkable. No matter how bad people think the world is today, this shows what true evil looked like. Fortunately, it also showed what true good looks like in the face of humbling adversity. People throw the word hero around today to anyone who can tie their shoes. The men and women who fought in this war are true hero’s, this museum does justice to their stories..
A Day of Debauchery
Walking back from the museum, we make a pit stop at Luke’s, an amazing seafood restaurant, albeit slightly more upscale. Once again New Orleans doesn’t disappoint. Getting the seafood platter and some appetizers we discussed the day. We decided to make the last day about debauchery…with some site seeing. It wasn’t that hot for New Orleans in the summer, but we decided we needed to try the 151 laced slushy all the same. These things are sickeningly sweet, but got the job done. We had no destination, and all day to get there, so we just wandered the French Quarter. Ducking in and out of art galleries and antique stores, in between drinks, we found it to be one of the best ways to spend an afternoon. We also strolled through Louis Armstrong Park, and paused at Congo Square, a great oasis from the craziness.
I do remember two stops for Po Boys, one at Killer Po Boys, a place with a great roast beef and a pork belly Po Boy. Both were fantastic, but I give the edge to Killer Po Boys..
One More Day
Knocking on my nephew’s door, Monday morning, oks, screaming get ready to drink…we all realized something. We were tired. Apparently, nonstop drinking, eating, and exploring takes its toll. Still we had one more half-day to enjoy the freedoms of the city. We got our morning drinks, one more stop at the Royal Oyster House, one more Po Boy…for now. Monday was similar to Sunday in that we roamed around until the end. We had two last drinks at the Carousel bar, grabbing seats at the bar itself and then unfortunately, it was time to go. When it is over it is over, not even our hurricane at the airport could be finished, apparently you can’t bring alcohol on a plane… (yet it is served on the plane).
Conclusion
So why am I telling you about this trip? Well one, I want to document it for my own sake. Two, I hopefully gave you some ideas as to where you can go and what you can eat. Obviously, the French Quarter is popular (touristy, but fun), but there are other neighborhoods to explore. Hit the Royal Oyster House as well as Luke’s. Go to the World War II museum, really just wander. Use this excursion as a loose guide as to what to see in New Orleans. On the other hand, you may do none of these things and still have a great time, that is the beauty of the city..
