We probably ate at 30 to 40 different spots over the 10 days we were in Split, Croatia. Due to this I am confident I can tell you where many of the best restaurants in Split are located. We focused on local taverns and cuisine, rather than extravagance. Nothing wrong with extravagance mind you, we just didn’t need it here. When deciding where to eat in Split we used the usual suspects TripAdvisor, Google reviews, but those only take you so far. Taking it a step further, we also asked a lot of locals for their input, especially directed at restaurant owners who were closing for the season.
A couple of key themes came up in all of the best restaurants in Split. 1) Freshness of ingredients 2) A smaller menu 3) A clear care/love for food. What differentiates a tourist trap from a solid local experience is how they value food. If I feel like I am in your home kitchen before I have even taken a bite, I am usually in for a good experience. It may be incomplete, but it is our list of where to eat in Split, Croatia.
The Best Restaurants in Split, Croatia
Using the criteria of food, value, originality and service I came up with my five best picks of the trip. I will also add a few honorable mentions, places where we received a good meal (or snack) and returned. Everyone has different experiences, I stand by mine.
Kod sfinge vaneuropske zviri
Don’t let the long name scare you away, this place is amazing. I don’t usually hit a spot numerous times when on vacation, but we went daily until they closed for the season. We started planning our day around our meal here. It was one of the top “tavern” restaurant experiences of my life. It is always a good sign when the owner won’t give you items that are on the menu, because the catch was poor that day. On some days it was like she had more menu items not available then available. When I did get my meal, nothing disappointed. We would order the grilled calamari every day for an appetizer (it is a main dish). The calamari were so fresh they were giving me the finger as I started to eat them.
Another treat was the pasta dish. I felt like I was breaking a commandment when eating it. The dish consisted of fresh mushrooms and a wonderfully creamy sauce. I would eat it every day if I could, but I wouldn’t be able to see my feet.
What I loved about this place was that the owner truly cares about the people who regularly visit. It was like we were visiting her home, places all around the world should take notes on how to treat tourists from this spot.
So what dish would I recommend from Kod sfinge vaneuropske zviri? Whatever the owner tells you to order.
PORTOFINO Steak – Pasta – Seafood
How can a restaurant steps away from a main tourist attraction serve some of the best food in Split Croatia? It just does. We went here twice, the first time it was very good, and we recommended it to a couple we had met. They came back and raved about it so much, we needed to try it again. I will say the second time is the charm for this establishment, because our last meal, was up there with one of our best. Portofino is definitely one of the best restaurants in Split, Croatia, who cares that is near a tourist attraction, it certainly isn’t a tourist trap.
With both meals we ordered an octopus appetizer as well the scarlet shrimp. Scarlet shrimp are not in the Adriatic Sea, but these were good none the less. Our second stop, which was dinner, really put this place above the rest. My wife ordered the lamb, and I ordered a truffle pasta dinner that was extraordinary. I thought the dish was great at Kod sfinge vaneuropske zviri. Somehow this was better. The pasta was in a cream sauce, again with fresh mushrooms…the picture doesn’t do it justice, although I chipped my tooth on the screen just now.
Of course, the service was incredible. Our waiter Ivan was top notch, it just so happened the other couple had him as well, and they also gave him rave reviews. Great Wine + Great Service + Great Food = one of the best restaurants in Split, Croatia.
Pikulece
My wife found this one by accident, while I was sleeping off the beating I gave my body in the prior days. If you get a chance squeeze into this tiny restaurant. It has one table inside, a counter and two tables outside. If you are lucky enough to get a table, you are in for a treat. This is another place that makes you feel like family (a nice family). After our last meal, of cuttlefish, anchovies, and various cheeses (among other things) we were invited to drink homemade liquor with the owner and staff. Now I can’t promise you that you will get free shots, but from our experience I can say you most likely will get a great meal.
You are treated like you are in someone’s kitchen because you basically are. If you sit at the counter you can watch them cook, the place is that tiny. The only downside is that the season ends in October and remains closed until February, like many of the places on the list. Still, when deciding where to eat in Split, Croatia, Pikulece should be near the top of your list when open.
Pizzeria Bokamorra
Man cannot live on seafood alone, unless you want it on top of your pizza. This restaurant was recommended by many locals, telling us that it was the only place that did pizza correctly. It was an outstanding pizza, made in front of us in a brick oven. I couldn’t help but eat an entire pizza myself (and then some). What I liked about this place was they had a small menu, and they only make pizza.
First, we dove into the meat lovers which was about five different types of pig all on top of the best sauce and cheese I have tasted in a while. We then went for the strict pepperoni, which had a nice spice. Overall if you need a break from things that swim, this is a great start. Don’t go in expecting a huge slice or extremely crisp crust like New York, but still expect to be treated to a hell of a pie. Bokamorra is also known for their mixology. Now I had beer, like I normally do with pizza, but their drinks are rumored to be as good as their food.
Kantun Paulina
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention this spot. If you need to know where to eat in Split after being over served, you’re in luck. Imagine a giant sandwich with up to ten sausages, shoved into the bun. Add to this a delicious red pepper spread along with creamy goat cheese and you have a ćevapčići. If I ate one of these every night I would die happy. I would also die quickly; these can’t be good for you. If a ćevapčići is wrong I don’t want to be right, this little spot is certainly one of the best restaurants in Split. Of course it differs from others on this list, the service is a bit surly, there is no seating, but if you’re drunk and looking for a late bite this may be the perfect food. They also tastes good sober, but who wants to be sober?
The Best Restaurants in Split: Honorable Mention
A couple of places deserve mentioning, because we did hit them a lot. These were staples in our trip and should be in your back pocket.
Corto Maltese Freestyle food – Great meat and cheese trays with some interesting menu items. This place has as a very cool vibe and the prices weren’t outrageous.
Tavern Kod Hvaranina – Another recommendation, definitely a good fallback if your other places are full. Good traditional food at a great price.
Misto Street Food Factory – We came here for our daily Mojito, it was much cheaper (and better) than on the main strip. We also tried the food and had some tasty items.
Conclusion on Where to Eat in Split, Croatia
Split, Croatia is full of tourists, therefore full of tourist traps. Follow this list and I would be surprised if you were disappointed. Fresh food, great service and a small menu all make for an exceptional restaurant and fantastic experience.
