I did this poor city wrong. I love Budapest, yet I gave it one of my worst posts. To be fair it only was my second post on this site and was a “description” of my trip here, but it was still horrid. It did not truly convey why I love Budapest, Hungary… and just how much it made me appreciate travel. Comparable to Prague, this is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. When considering this Budapest review, I will touch on my highlights to guide you should you decide to visit this wonderful city.
Budapest was one of those places that I looked at and thought, I could live here. I know that might just be vacation talk, but my memories are so fond that I still feel this way. The food, the culture, the nightlife, everything just came together. There was a relaxing energy of which I do not find very often. It is rare that I am ever that laidback and comfortable in any atmosphere, especially considering there was so much to do that one could run around all day.
Maybe the reason I love Budapest, Hungary so much was I had low expectations. It never really comes up as a “must visit” when people talk about world cities or even cities in Europe. When I was presented with the idea, I was a little hesitant, I mean…no red sauce or fresh fish of the Mediterranean? I will be the first to admit that I was wrong… I love Budapest, below is my Budapest review and what I think you should see and know. As a side, I put a small table toward the bottom of this post if you just want to skip to the highlights.
The Food of Budapest
I do not think I could say I love Budapest if I did not love the food. Hungarian food is certainly heavy, consisting of meats and stews. Sausage was its own food group in this country; I ate it daily. Whether it was a food cart or a little shop, hardy food was on every menu. Let me list out some of the more popular foods and where to eat in Budapest. The food is one of the many reasons I love Budapest. First the places to eat:
Central Market Hall
No Budapest review would be complete without mentioning the Central Market Hall. This should be your first stop after dropping off your luggage. The Central Market hall is a staple, you may eat here daily. The first floor is a market where you can sample a variety of foods, it is a place where people shop for their restaurant or home. I tried various chocolates, a hell of a lot of strudel and some meats. This was the first place where I tried horse. The lady was not too happy when I winced at its gamey taste.
The second floor of the food market is really where the action is. By action I mean cluster F*. It took me a minute to warm up to this market due to the crowds. The table situation is similar to the Thunderdome; it is like a game of musical chairs… 20 tables for 100 people. This is not fine dining by any means, but it did give me a great opportunity to sample many of the classics like Chicken Paprika, Hungarian Goulash, and Stuffed Cabbage. After one gets used to the sheer craziness of it all, you will love it. We spent every day here, at least once if not multiple times.
Tip: Go to the Central Market at off times to avoid the crowds
Borkonyha Winekitchen Restaurant
Maybe you want something a little more refined, like a (relatively inexpensive) Michelin star restaurant. I would certainly say that Borkonyha Winekitchen Restaurant is a must try. You know a place is good when you are still thinking about the bread years later. The menu changes daily, but it is laid out like a tasting menu. There was a venison dish that I would kill for as well as some of the best wines available. One note, due to the virus that shall not be named…the place is closed, but they are directing their patrons to a pop-up location right down the road, using their same cooking staff. Check their website for more details here.
Café Gerbeaud
This is a highly rated restaurant in Budapest that has been around for over 162 years. It was right outside our hotel; I was a bit worried it would be a tourist trap. I can say with certainty that it is not; the food was outstanding. Just walking into this restaurant, you notice how beautiful it is. The decorations make you feel as if you are walking into Downton Abbey with the lavish chandeliers and artwork.
The food was spectacular, I ordered a schnitzel which I can say was the best schnitzel I ever had. I never authored any books on schnitzel, but I know good food. The Dobos Torte was also amazing, but I am not sure how one could mess up this cake. Everything exceeded my expectations; I would say Cafe’ Gerbeaud is a must visit.
I had so many other stops to share, but most of them did not make it through the last couple of months. Therefore, I will just point you toward some of the food you should be eating, and you can shift through what is left open.
Sausage
As mention a stable in my diet and what I would eat on a nightly basis. Sausage to the people of Budapest is like tofu to a vegan. I had it a number of times, but my best advice to you is if you come across a stand where meat is cooking and they have buns, make it a point to eat what they are serving.
Hungarian goulash
Like pasta in Rome or crickets in Thailand, you must eat Hungarian goulash when in Budapest. It is the national dish. I had this on multiple occasions, it is perfect on a colder day. You can find it all over the city, people seem to like Gettó Gulyás… if you are trying it, might as well find the best.
Strudel
People tend to think of strudel as a German dish, I found the strudel in Budapest to be better than Munich. My advice is to go to the before mentioned Central market, walk around the first floor and hit as many places as you can until they kick you out.
Alcohol of Budapest
I love Budapest alcohol, with one exception. I was expecting to adore the beer in this city, it is closely tied to Prague so I figured it would be just as good. I was a little disappointed in the beer, but other alcohol made up for it. Below is what to drink when visiting Budapest. If you are non-drinking you can skip this part of the Budapest review.
Wine
Unexpectedly good is the way I will describe the wine in Budapest. I would never have thought I would like the wine so much here. In my humble opinion it is second only to Italy, which was surprising. In lieu of beer I recommend getting a nice red, it is cheap in this country and goes great with sausage.
Unicum
This is a thick almost liquorish tasting drink native to Hungary. It has over 40 spices in it and is extremely bitter. Recently I ran through half a bottle that was in my personal bar. This is something I have only seen in this country, I am sure you can get it someplace else if you search, but it is better to go to the source. My first time having this drink it was paired with a nice beer at around 11:00 am (see above), great way to start the day. Unicum is the national drink of Hungary, so it deserves at least a taste.
Palinka
Sheer poison…. I mean great, absolutely great! Palinka is a fruit brandy that is like none other I have ever tasted. I drink American brandy on a regular basis, but Palinka can wipe you out fairly quickly. It is an acquired taste, which I am still acquiring. Try it at least once if you visit Budapest.
Mulled Wine
Nothing better on a cold night than a glass of warm mulled wine. Especially when they pour a shot of whiskey in it. This was a staple in my diet, especially when walking Váci street. Keep your eyes out for the stands outside of the restaurants (avoid the food at these restaurants). Grab one and move on.
Things to Do in Budapest
Budapest has a lot to see in between eating sausage and drinking wine. There are a couple of things that you must see because you are in the city. Then there are things that I find highly recommended. The city feels big but is extremely walkable. If you are there for a week, I would recommend seeing two things a day. Below some are more reasons why I love Budapest.
St. Stephen’s Basilica
No European trip report would be complete without mentioning an old Catholic church, this Budapest review is no different. Knock this one out early, it is located in a very convenient area, at least is was for us, not too far from Váci street (maybe 10 minutes). It is a beautiful structure completed in 1905 (not as old as many churches sprinkled through Europe), and is certainly worth seeing. The church adds to the atmosphere, I loved drinking a nice cocktail in one of the many cafes right outside this structure.
Váci street
Just like every European city has a bunch of old churches, every European city has its own touristy street. If you want to get hustled by restaurant workers who will push you to try their subpar food, this is the street for you. Still, there was something I loved about this street, maybe it was the previously mentioned mulled wine. Definitely worth the walk, because it is well free.
Quick Tip: There is an Ice bar at the end of Váci street (or beginning) which I recommend. Why not freeze yourself for 20-minutes while drinking two free drinks included with the entry fee.
Parliament Building
Ok, I have a confession, I did not enter this building. We tried twice, but both times there was some weird Hungarian event going on. I did go on the outside throughout the trip, I will pretend that this is the best part of the area. To me this is one of those check the boxes places, certainly worth going to after or before stuffing your face.
Buda Castle
This is a big area so dedicate some time to it. Located on the Buda side of the Danube, this complex has some of the best views in the city. You can either climb a ton of stairs to get up there or take the Buda Hill Funicular, which is quicker and easier. There are museums and restaurants scattered throughout the location; this is the one section I would recommend a half a day for. Especially considering you will want to visit this next spot
Buda Castle Labyrinth
Right near the Buda castle, are the Buda Castle Labyrinths (obviously). They are a bit hard to find but worth the effort. I think these labyrinths are one of the more underrated things in this city. It is just fun exploring in the pitch black (be careful if you have little kids). One of the coolest historical aspects of these labyrinths is that it was the prison of the real Dracula, where he spent 10 years. Go into this castle and see if you could make it ten years in this cell.
Thermal Baths
The thermal baths that are spread throughout Budapest were another highlight of our trip. At present time, the idea of sharing warm water with hundreds of strangers may seem a bit risky. Combined that with the unfortunate idea of seeing all those European speedos. Still I loved the baths. There are many located in the city, one of the bigger ones is the Széchenyi Thermal Bath, which is located more toward Hero’s square. It is the most popular, mainly an outside bath.
The one we went to most is the GELLÉRT Baths (which is open currently). The architecture was beautiful here, located inside the Hotel Gellért the location is very accessible. The cost is also good for what you get, for two people and a cabin it is about 35 euro. The baths are great way to help you digest a heavy meal after hitting the central market (Which is right across the bridge). Thermal baths are certainly a huge factor in why I love Budapest so much!
Stroll the Andrassy Út
We walked this from end to end and back again, there is a lot to see on this street. While Váci street is a bit touristy, the Andrassy Út is more of a classic. It is filled with higher end shops, great architecture, and is a UNESCO Heritage Site. You will find there are several great cafe’s serving fish stew or goulash. This is also where the famed Opera house is located. Make it all the way to the end and you will discover more beautiful things to see.
Ruin Bars
Thank god for capitalism! Years of communism created a slew of crumbling, abandon factories and buildings throughout the city. In the early 2000s many of these were transformed into bars where European hipsters like to hang out. The best and most popular ruin bar is Szimpla Kert, if you only hit one make sure it is this one.
Funny thing about Szimpla Kert, we went at three different times and had three incredibly unique experiences. The first time was on a Sunday afternoon, it was mainly a market, but it did have a couple of places to get drinks. Early in the night around 8 or 9, the sausage was flowing, more people, more of a bar atmosphere. We finally went back around midnight, it was like a rave, packed full of heavily intoxicated people. Maybe the last one is not ideal for this environment, but hopefully you are reading this in the distant future when Covid-19 is a bad dream. The ruins bars are just one of the many reasons I love Budapest.
The Dark History of Budapest
Any Budapest review should mention the history of this city. Budapest has unfortunately been occupied by both the Nazis and the soviets after World War 2. To make matters worse the city was leveled during the war as well, unlike Prague that was kept relatively intact. I love Budapest, I hate to think it has such a terrible past. There are a number of places to visit that discuss this in more detail, none better than the first one:
The House of Terror
Personally, although a fitting name, I feel it does not do it a historical justice. This is a museum that describes the horrors of communist Russia as well as the terrible things the Nazis/sympathizers did. To me it is a must stop for everyone entering the city, it reinforces how disgusting both fascist and communism are. Although the description of what the Nazis did was terrible, what the Russians did was worse…if you can believe this. Maybe stop by this museum before preaching a move toward communism in any country.
Shoes on the Danube Bank
One of the more heartbreaking things I have encountered when traveling. Walking along the Danube you may come across a group of shoes on the shore. If you did not stop and read or know any better, you may be confused by what you are looking at. It is a memorial for Jews that were killed by the Arrow Cross Party (Nazi copycats) during World War 2. This is a newer memorial that was erected in 2005. It is another reminder of the difficult periods this city has seen.
Heroes’ Square
Not all the history of Budapest is meant to depress you. Heroes’ Square may feel like it is a bit out of the way (at least from the Danube), but it is worth a visit. There is a lot around it such as the Museum of Fine Arts and Széchenyi Thermal Bath. The square itself is decorated with a complex featuring the Seven chieftains of the Magyars and other important Hungarian national leaders. Certainly, worth visiting, but if you are coming from the Danube, take a cab or enjoy a huge walk down Andrassy Út.
Crowds and Atmosphere
I should mention in my Budapest review the crowds of the area. Is Budapest touristy? A bit yes, but not as bad as other places I have visited. Rome and Prague to name two. We went in October which had almost perfect weather. It was a bit chilly at night, but overall better than the heat of August. The tourist attractions like Buda castle and certainly Váci street get very crowded at times, but still not unbearable. Both remind you that you are in a tourist destination. As mentioned, the Central Market also was a mad house, especially on the second floor. That was due to the influx of locals as well as tourists.
The thing that makes this city stand out is its beauty. There is a great mix of Eclectic and Gothic styles of architecture that gives it that old, but not ancient look. The city itself was for the most part clean, although I did see a decent amount of graffiti. The buildings were huge and awe inspiring, seeing the parliament building lite up at night is something to be experienced in person.
Truth be told, sometimes the energy of a city just hits you right. That is the way I felt about Budapest. I never felt out of place, it was foreign but familiar. Everything in the city melted my stress away, it is hard to put down in words, but this is why I love Budapest so much.
Day Trips from Budapest
I love Budapest, I cannot see why anyone would leave, but you may feel differently. If you must leave Budapest there are a few options to visit other places. Probably the one I have heard most people doing is to Vienna. To get to Vienna you will need to make your way to the Railjet high-speed train located in the Budapest Keleti train station. The trip takes about 2.5 hours.
Another popular option is to go to Prague from Budapest. Once again you will go to Budapest-Keleti train station, although now you will be sitting on the train for over five hours. It may be best to turn this into an overnight trip.
If you are feeling particularly ambitious you can also take a bus to Slovakia, this will take you about 3.5 hours. For all of you who always dreamed about visiting Slovakia.
You can also consider a cruise package down the Danube that hits multiple cities, including Vienna and Prague. Personally, these do not float my boat (pun intended). I hate being on an itinerary when travelling. Plus, there is too much temptation to eat on the ship, which kills the point of travel for me…but to each his own.
Quick Recap
| Places to Eat | Notes |
| Café Gerbeaud | Order the Schnitzel |
| Borkonyha Winekitchen Restaurant | Michelin Star Establishment |
| Central Market Hall | Go to the second floor to sample a lot of authentic food |
| Things to Do | |
| Thermal Baths | I Especially like the Gellar Baths |
| Ruin Bars | Szimpla Kert may be the best. |
| Buda Castle | Do not forget the labyrinth that houses Dracula’s prison. |
| Walk the Streets | Stoll the Andrassy Út and Váci street to start |
| Parliament Building | Beautiful building worth the visit |
Other Tips About Budapest …
- The people are not very warm and cuddly. I am not sure if any eastern Europeans are, and the fine people of Budapest will reinforce this attitude. You may experience some yelling, but that is only if they cannot hear you. I explained more about that in this post here.
- The City felt safe when I was there. Of course, still always know where you are going. My traveling partner got lost and ended up on a slightly shadier side of town. Overall, like always just keep your head up. One major crime in Budapest and all of Europe is pickpocketing! Use precaution and spread your money out!
- Bring Good Shoes, one of the reasons why I love Budapest so much is how walkable it is. The city is clean and there seems to be a little shop around every corner. You should be logging over 30K steps daily so bring the right gear! Just walk around you will see why I love Budapest so much
- Although part of the European union, the country still has its own currency, which is the Forints. You can use Euros in most places, but it is probably wise to carry some local currency just in case you run into a burley sausage vendor.
- As always, watch out for cab drivers, keep an eye on the meter, they have been known to overcharge.
- The People of Budapest hated communism so much they put a statue of Reagan up not too far from the Parliament Building. Americans please take note.
Conclusion: Why I love Budapest
This concludes my Budapest review. Yes, I love Budapest. The feel of the city makes me think back to it constantly. It is a place with so much to do you never feel bored, yet you always feel relaxed. If you love history, art, great food you need to add Budapest to your travel wish list (read mine here). I love Budapest so much it is a place I can see myself getting a little house and just enjoying life for the rest of my days. Certainly, a place I need to revisit.
